Exceedingly smooth, a taste of this tea might make the drinker distain all other Bai Cha. Though Anji Bai Cha is the most well-known example, green tea from the same low-chlorophyll varietal is produced in several regions. This one is from the mountainous province of Guizhou, and very rare to find in the Western market. Why, we don't know, for it is as exquisite as a fine wine: the silky texture of sugarcane juice carries just the barest hint of steamed vegetables and gentle spices, perhaps buttery fava beans or bold fiddlehead fern with a few green peppercorns. It makes for an addictively stimulating brew—try it as an aperitif on a warm evening before a foray into haute cuisine, or in accompaniment to delicate, simple fare.